In this tutorial I'm going to wire my Sugar tin lamp with the cord going out the back of the tin.  Instead of using a pipe, I'll be using two nipples. One of the nipples will be used to secure the tin to the wood base. The other nipple will be used to connect the socket to the lid of the tin.  The check ring will go on top of the lid followed by the neck.

Above is a photo of the parts we will be using to connect the socket to the lid.  As you can see in this photo, I have a very large hole in the top of my tin.  I will be using the large metal washer on the inside of my lid to cover up the hole and secure the rest of the lamp parts to the top of the lid. 

I often use a thread lock to keep my nuts from turning when I screw a bulb in and out of the lamp.  I prefer the removable thread lock.

I added an extra nut and washer to the top, so that I could keep my lamp parts in place when I thread the lamp.  The lid is now fully assembled.

You can see the large washer on the inside of the lid with a lock washer and nut securing the hardware in place.  It's okay if the nipple sticks out of the bottom of the lid a bit.

I've drilled a hole in the back of the tin and added a plug to protect the cord from the sharp metal.  This hole is 7/8".   Not all cords or cord protecting plugs are the same diameter, so be sure to measure you plug before you drill.  Also, make sure your cord will go through your plug.

I've attached the nipple to the bottom of the wood plaque with a nut and lock washer. So that the lamp will sit flat, the hardware must fit inside of the larger hole that is drilled part way through the wood plaque.

I attached the tin to the wood base using a washer next to the tin followed by the lock washer and nut. The tin is fairly thin. I'm strengthening the hole with the washer in the same way that a hole reinforcement protects a punched hole in a piece of paper.

I start by threading the cord through the hole I made in the back of the lamp.  Some people will optionally put a knot in the cord inside the container (sugar tin) just in case someone accidentally trips on the cord.  This is a secondary precaution because an underwriter's knot should always be tied inside the socket.

I pull the cord through the top of the lid and wire the socket as I described in Part 2 of the tutorial.  I won't repeat that information here, but I will show that photos above.

Once the lamp is wired, I turn it on to test it. You can see that cord comes out the back of the tin.

I usually add felt to the bottom of my finished lamps. I place the lamp on top of the felt and trace around the lamp. I cut inside the lines.

The next step would be to glue the felt. I'm not going to complete that step because I'm going to completely take my lamp apart again to paint the base and tin. I have a few other modifications I would like to make as well.

Assembling and wiring a simple lamp out of repurposed materials is not that difficult.  With a little bit of imagination and a few lamp parts, you can create a lamp to match any room in your house. 

Continuing on from the Part 1 of the Old Tin Lamp Tutorial, we are going to start by creating a Sugar tin lamp with legs.  At the end of this tutorial, I’ll be taking the lamp apart.  I’m going to use exactly the same sugar tin and wood plaque to make a legless version of this lamp with the cord going out the back of the tin.

The first step will be to put a hole in the center of the bottom of the tin for our 1/8 IP pipe to go through.  I use a ruler to measure the center.  A pipe is generally 3/8” in diameter.  I drill a 7/16” hole.  I put the drill bit in the photo to give you an idea of the size of the hole.

For any hole, I would first drill a small pilot hole and then drill a bigger hole.  When I’m drilling metal, I often use a stepped drill bit because the hole can be deburred automatically.

Once the hole is drilled I can place my pipe through all the parts to verify that my pipe will work with my parts.  I know the pipe will work if the bottom of the pipe doesn’t extend beyond the bottom of my wood base and the top of my pipe has enough threads to keep the socket securely attached to the pipe, about 5/16”.

I have many pipes in a variety of sizes.  If you were making only one lamp, you’d stack up all your lamp parts and measure from the bottom of the base to the top of the neck. You should have about 5/16” of thread above the neck for screwing on the socket.

We’re going to put legs on this lamp.  We need to drill pilot holes for the wood screws that secure our legs to the wood plaque.

I’m using a couple metal washers, a plastic bushing and a bead stacked up to make each leg.  I put the pieced on the screw in the order I want and screw the stack into the wood.  I decided to go with a higher leg, so I had to move my holes over.  If the holes bothered me, I would add felt to the bottom.  As it is, not many people will turn over the lamp to look at the bottom.

Above you can see all the legs screwed into the base. You can also see that I’ve completely assembled my lamp parts onto the pipe and fastened the nuts down. 

I’m just going to put my lamp completely together to see how it looks.  I haven’t wired the lamp yet, but I have put my socket inside the socket cover.

I can now put a bulb inside the socket and put a clip-on shade onto the lamp.  With the lamp assembled like this, I can experiment with different shades.  If I don’t like the way my lamp looks at this point, I can easily take it apart.  I might, for instance decide that I would rather have a lampshade that sits on top of a harp.  In that case, I would have to add the harp base between the top of the neck and the bottom of the socket.

Above are little plastic bushings that protect the cord from rubbing against sharp metal.  I’ll be using one of these on my cord.

Now I’m going to start to wire my lamp.  I slipped the little plastic bushing onto my cord to prevent the cord from rubbing against any sharp edges on my pipe.

I pull the cord through from the bottom of the base up through the bottom of the socket.

I want to do an underwriter’s knot inside the socket cover.  The knot helps insure that the bare wire leads cannot be pulled out of the socket by accident. 

You’ll notice that one half of the cord has ridges on the plastic whereas the other side is smooth.  The ridged side goes on the neutral screw, generally silver colored.  The smooth lead goes on the hot screw, generally gold colored.  I put a loop in the lead and put the end of the loop facing the direction the screw turns.  Hooking the lead toward the direction of the turning screw will make it easier to get the lead tightly wrapped around the screw.

Once the socket is connected, screw on the cap.  I test the lamp by adding a bulb and turning the lamp on.

I add the shade to make sure the lamp still looks good.  You can see in the photo above that the cord is coming out from underneath the wood base.

Next time: Part 3: Making an Old Tin Lamp with the cord coming out the back of the tin.

I had a couple people ask me about putting together lamps from unusual materials.  Without revealing the types of lamps they are creating, I thought I would give a generic tutorial on making lamps with containers.  In this case, I'll be using an old sugar tin that I have painted.  I'm doing this purely for a demonstration.  This lamp can be put together using several different configurations of raw materials.  I'm just going to show two different configurations, one with legs and one without.

Before I start, I need to explain the difference between a nipple and a pipe and the two methods I'm demonstrating.  Nipples are shorter than pipes and are generally completely threaded.  A pipe is longer, usually going completely through the base of the lamp.  A pipe can be fully threaded, but often it is just threaded on the top and bottom.  Pipes and nipples can be made of brass or steel.  A brass pipe that isn't fully threaded can be exposed...that would be a different demo.

If I were to make my Old Tin Lamp without legs, I could use two nipples, one to attach the tin to the base, the other to attach the lamp neck to the tin lid. If I used a pipe, I would choose a pipe long enough to pass all the way through the tin and out the base. The pipe must not stick out the end of the base. When I put together the lamp in the second part of this tutorial, I'll show the ideal length of pipe.

Above is an example of a lamp that uses a nipple through the lid of the canister.  You can see that the cord comes out the back of the lamp.

You can see that the nipple just passes through the lid and not through the whole base (canister).

In this view you can see the cord coming through the nipple and down the back of the canister.

I didn't want to pass the pipe down through my container because I had a miniature scene inside my canister.  If I were to put a pipe down the center of the canister, I would have to include the pipe as part of my miniature scene.  My canister (above) has a false back to hide the cord.

Now I'm ready to start my tutorial.  Using an old sugar tin, I'm stacking up my lamp parts to see how I would like my lamp to look. 

I have a sugar tin and a wood base that I'm going to recycle and make into a lamp.  One of my options is to place the tin onto the base and push the cord out the back of the tin.  Notice that I have placed a brass neck on top of my tin.  I want bottom of my shade to be above the tin, so I need a little space between the tin and the socket.   In this case I'm using a two part socket that screws together.  You can use a metal two piece socket that presses together.  I'm using the screw together type, so I can easily take my socket apart to demo both assembly options.

I added some beads with spacers on the bottom to pass the cord underneath the base.  I need to add legs high enough to allow the cord plenty of room to pass underneath.

I am using a recycled wood base.  The base was previously painted white.  I've sanded it.  I drilled a hole to put a 1/8 IP pipe or nipple through the base.

On the back of the base, I drilled a 1 inch hole part way through the base.  It's just deep enough to accomodate a couple nuts.  This wooden plaque has some knots so I had to be careful to make sure my holes didn't go through a knot.

We've now stacked everything up and we're ready to assemble the lamp.   I'll be doing assembly today and publishing Part 2 tomorrow. 

Denne kjolen begynte jeg på i mars (skrevet om i dette innlegget), og det gjensto ikke så veldig mye for å få den ferdig. Grunnen til at det ble utsatt var vel helst at det som gjensto var litt tidkrevende putlearbeid, blant annet endel håndsøm, noe jeg aldri har vært fan av. Men nå i sommer har jeg sydd så mye usynlige håndsømmer på jobb, at jeg har fått skikkelig dreisen på det. Dermed ble kjolen endelig ferdig :)

Det røde stoffet er rester av cordfløyel fra Stoff og Stil, og det blå er mønstret bomull fra Tilda, som selges hos panduro. Mønsteret er fra Ottobre, et barnemønsterblad jeg virkelig kan anbefale! Det kommer nokså ofte ut, har mange fine mønstre fra nyfødt-størrelse til 170cm. Og så er det jo ikke verst å betale 70 kr for en haug med mønstre, når enkeltmønstre fra Burda koster over hundrelappen!

After some research and asking around the New Zealand Vodafone dealers, they recommended me to go to Omni Tech Limited, it is located at 378 Great North Road, Henderson, Auckland to solve my problem.  Before going there, I search for "mobile phone repair" under www.google.com, I found a few links pointed towards Omni Tech Limited's site.  This company is listed with New Zealand Retailers' Association under the Supplier's Section <here>

It took me less than one day to let Omni Tech Limited to unlock my mobile phone from the Australian network and did not cost me a bomb!  They provide superior and quality service; which gave my dollar a big bang!

You have to be very careful who you choose to repair your mobile phone as you do not want your expensive phone to be messed by some amatures in Auckland!  If yuu have any doubt, you can always contact Omni Tech Limited at (09) 8383943. 

They charge only $22.50 inspection for a full checkup on your mobile phone (which is counted towards the final repair bill). Other might charge you $25, $40 or even $70 before they even look at your phone!

Now if I could only get my GD wireless router working again...maybe I'll start posting here more often.

Flickr here i come!

4 down.

46 to go. :D

Each bag took 50 yards of 3 1/2mm braided cord. All except the lime one which is larger. It took 100 yards.

I added decorative buttons and cardboard tags for a different look.

Severe and steadily worsening pain, muscle spasms, stiffness, weakness, and clumsiness throughout the left side of the body with worst symptoms focused in neck, jaw, shoulders, arm, hand/wrist, hip/pelvis, leg and foot/ankle. Every aspect of life, from walking to maintaining basic facial expressions (such as a smile) were seriously impacted.

Since receiving care at this office, I have noticed the following changes in my health:

After only a few visits, pain and stiffness are already noticeably reduced. Weakness and clumsiness that had previously been chronic, intense and persistent now develop only later in the day and are becoming less severs and disabling.

While under care at this office, I have also noticed the following changes in my quality of life and/or my ability to function and perform:

My life is already returning to normalcy in many ways. I can walk, drive and sit for longer periods. I am sleeping better, feeling less drained, am able to focus for longer periods without the constant interruption of intense pain and muscle spasms. I am a safer driver and cyclist since I can again turn my head to the left to check traffic when necessary. And I can smile!

R.M. graduate student, age 41, 6/20/08

]]> http://osysnews.wordpress.com/2008/06/19/cutting-the-cat-5-cord-not-so-fast/ Thu, 19 Jun 2008 21:27:05 +0000 osysnews http://osysnews.wordpress.com/2008/06/19/cutting-the-cat-5-cord-not-so-fast/

While the history of wireless computer networks dates back to the 1970 with the University of Hawaii's ALOHAnet (I wish we retained that name instead of 802.11x), it has only been during the past, say, 10 years that the technology started to make serious inroads into the consumer market - your home. The latest and greatest variant is 802.11n, and while promoted as the best thing since sliced bread, Frank Ohlhorst has his reservations, and debunks 5 myths concerning 802.11n.

The 5 myths are, according to Ohlhorst:

Myth #1: 802.11n is fast!
Myth #2: 802.11n is easy!
Myth #3: 802.11n is inexpensive!
Myth #4: 802.11n offers great coverage!
Myth #5: 802.11n is secure!
Personally, I have issues with anything that is wireless. I'm old-fashioned in that I try to avoid the technology as much as possible, since for most use-cases, it offers more disadvantages than advantages. I don't have a wireless mouse and/or keyboard, because the fiddling about with batteries (whether it has a charger or not) is too cumbersome, and the lack of a cable doesn't make it any less so.

When it comes to wireless networking, I use it where it makes sense: mobile devices. My PowerBook uses a wireless connection, but my 'stationary' equipment all use good old ethernet cable, because for a desktop machine I simply see no advantages in using wireless networking - only disadvantages. It's slower, less reliable, costlier, far less secure, and quite problematic on most less-popular operating systems.

What do you all think? What do you use at home? Wireless all around, or do people trip over strands of CAT5 cable draped all over your apartment?

 I like birds, so of course the necklaces with the bird pendants are my favorites.  The cord for the necklace is suede leather.  I wire-wrapped the pendant.

Here is another image in which I painted the background an orangish red. I did add a bit of recycled brown paper to the tag before I added the image.  I added a filigree metal bead to the pendant.  The cord for the necklace is a braided black leather.

I painted the background black on this pendant.  I used the woman from an image I used previously.  I added a flower image and a little brass flower to her hair.    The necklace is pink satin cord.  I added a couple banded metal beads to the cord.

This pendant looks very similar to a previous pendant I had made using the same image. I decided to narrow the focus on the image, so the woman in the white dress is larger. Less of the scenery is showing.  The pendant has a decorative metal bead.  The cord is a yellow satin.

I think it's time for me to move on.  I did acquire some other handmade paper and mulberry paper.  I would like to give them a try.

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An online friend of mine saw my post about recycling my hotel room key tags.  She sent me some vintage images to use on my tags.  Over the weekend I made 8 different pendants.  I finished four necklace. 

The one above is a woman in a pink kimono with blossoms falling in her hair.  I added some pink flower images, a brass finding and gold trim.    I don't think this one is good enough to offer for sale.

Above is a woman in a white dress among white trees and pink blossoms.

The one above is a boat in a harbor.  I added a copper paper to this one and used copper leaf on the sides.

This is probably my favorite image.  It is a bird in the branches of a tree.  The tree has orangish red leaves.  I painted the background blue.  I added some red paper then put the image on top of the red paper.  I added some gold enamel around the edges and a little brass finding.

I have 4 more necklaces to finish.  I have a lot of room key tags to experiment with.

Time to get to work!

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Spina bifida malformations fall into three categories: spina bifida occulta, spina bifida cystica (myelomeningocele), and meningocele. The most common location of the malformations is the lumbar and sacral areas of the spinal cord.

The most common location of the malformations is the lumbar and sacral areas of the spinal cord. The lumbar nerves control the muscles in the hip, leg, knee and foot, and help to keep the body erect.

There is no cure for nerve damage due to spina bifida. To prevent further damage of the nervous tissue and to prevent infection, pediatric neurosurgeons operate to close the opening on the back.

Neural tube defects can usually be detected during pregnancy by testing the mother's blood (AFP screening) or a detailed fetal ultrasound. Spina bifida may be associated with other malformations as in dysmorphic syndromes, often resulting in spontaneous miscarriage.

We, www.lifechums.com/ are now going to provide a wealth of information of Famous People to send out a positive message to all Disabled People.