Quintessentially magazine´s visit to The Ring Hotel yields an explicit recommendation. Quintessentially is first and foremost a club, a club for those who believe that life is too short to waste time on the mundane or second-best.

In der Franz Josef Village logiere ich im - wie könnte es anders sein - Franz Josef Glacier YHA. Es hat auch seine Vorteile in der Nebensaison unterwegs zu sein: Ich wohne alleine im günstigen 4er-Zimmer. Es hat sogar eine Sauna im Hause. Hier erhole ich mich prächtig!

Die Zufahrtsstrasse zum Gletscher ist etwas 5 km lang. Von da aus sind es zu Fuss nochmals rund 40 Minuten bis zur Gletscherzunge. Ich verpasse natürlich den Shuttel Bus und muss die ganze Strecke laufen.

Wie der nahe gelegene Fox Glacier, reichte auch der Franz Josef Glacier einmal bis zum Meer. Beide Gletscher sollen noch heute die niedrigsten Gletscher über Meereshöhe sein.  Während die Gletscher in den Alpen schmelzen, wachsen der Fox Glacier und der Franz Josef Glacier neuerdings wieder jedes Jahr um bis zu 80 m.

Da ich oft auf Schweizer Bergwanderwegen unterwegs bin, finde ich den Anblick des Franz Josef Glaciers nicht so aussergewöhnlich. Umso mehr gefällt mir jedoch das saftige Grün des Regenwaldes. Auf dem Rückweg entdecke ich den Douglas Walk, der direkt in den dichten Wald und zum traumhaften Peter's Pool führt.

Ich geniesse es, völlig unbeschwert durch den exotischen Wald zu spazieren. Während in Australien überall Gefahren lauerten und es von Schlangen und Gifttieren nur so wimmelte, muss ich in Neuseeland keine Angst vor Angriffen haben ;-) Ganz gefahrlos ist es dann doch wieder nicht, denn weiter oben ist der Weg durch einen Bergrutsch unterbrochen und ich muss umkehren. Aber die drei Stunden im Dickicht des Regenwaldes gehören zu den eindrücklichsten Momenten meiner Reise.

Kennt ihr schon den kürzesten Nazi-Witz der Welt?

Ein Nazi geht in die Uni,... (Das war schon der Witz!)

Zugegeben, der war flach. Ausserdem abgekupfert, das war ursprünglich ein Manta-Witz. Aber der Opel-Manta ist beinahe ausgestorben. Gleiches ist wünschenswert für die nationalsozialistische Idiologie.
Ich fordere daher für alle sexuell aktiven Nazis (falls es sowas gibt) Zwangsverhütung bis ins Alter! Bis ins hohe Alter!

Bei meinen Lesern möchte ich mich nochmals für diesen platten Nazi-Joke entschuldigen, leider könnt ihr hier nichts hochintellektuelles (uff...schweres Wort) erwarten, schliesslich hat der liebe Organisator meinen IQ mit nur 63 ferndiagnostiziert!

Mal im Ernst Herr Organisator, ist es nicht erbärmlich bei einer mißliebigen Meinung, die Person welche diese vertritt, zu diffamieren? Ich könnte ja auf gleichem Niveau erwidern, indem ich schreibe:
"Um die Textinhalte bei PFS zu erfassen, genügt ein IQ von 20. (21 braucht ein Affe, um eine Banane zu schälen). Vielleicht ist das ja eure Zielgruppe."
mach ich aber nicht.

Mit dem Beleidigen hat es bei Euch aber nicht so wirklich hingehauen:

In eigener Sache - “Tom´s Wochenschau” und andere Primaten…

Schon die Überschrift ist der erste Schuß ins eigene Knie. Primat bezeichnet u.a. die Vorrangstellung des Papstes in der römisch-katholischen Kirche, also die höchste Rechtsgewalt in der Kirche (Jurisdiktionsprimat) die jene Person für sich beansprucht, die Ihr in Eurem Weblog mehrfach beweihräuchert habt. Hey Leute, Ihr braucht Eure sexuelle Enthaltsamkeit nicht mit gefälschter Frömmigkeit zu kaschieren, über Orgasmusprobleme kann man heutzutage offen reden, dafür haben die lieben 68'er gesorgt ;-)

Des weiteren sind Primaten die Ordnung der höheren Säugetiere, die auch den Menschen einschließt. Seht Ihr, bei mir könnt Ihr noch was lernen :-)

Lassen wir das. Kommen wir nun zum ernsteren Teil:

(...) Dazu zählen auf der einen Seite Menschen, die scheinbar planlos auf Andersfarbige und Linke losgehen und diese im Extremfall zu Tode prügeln. Ohne Zweifel, das gehört sich nicht und macht jede Bemühung, das Ausländer- bzw. Islamisierungs-Problem politisch zu lösen, zunichte. (...)

verharmlost der Organisator rechte Gewalt. Also, wenn Neonazis Menschen mit anderer Meinung oder Herkunft niederprügeln und töten "gehört sich das nicht" klingt als hätte jemand gegen Benimmregeln bei Tisch verstoßen. Bei Menschen mit sogen. Migrationshintergrund hört sich das dann so an:

Dieser Tage beginnt in München der Prozess gegen die U-Bahn-Schläger, die den Rentner Bruno N. beinahe totgetreten hätten. Während sich einer der beiden Ausländer bereits den dritten Anwalt leistet, wünscht sich das PFS die Wiedereinführung der Todesstrafe nur nicht, weil es von besonders herzensguten Menschen betrieben wird.

Eindeutiger kann man nicht mit zweierlei Maß messen, oder? Während rechte Gewalttäter mit einem "Du du du, das macht man aber nicht" davonkommen sollen, hält Euch nur Eure "Herzensgüte" davon ab, für ausländische Gewaltverbrecher, die Todesstrafe zu fordern. Dass Herzensgüte derart selektiv sein kann, ist neu für mich.

Zur Klarstellung: Auch ich verabscheue die Gewalttaten der beiden U-Bahn-Schläger. Doch ich betrachte sie als Untaten zweier Individuen und konstruiere daraus keinen Zusammenhang zu ihrer Nationalität, Religionszugehörigkeit oder Ethnizität. Wer ein ganzes Volk pauschal als kollektiv gewalttätig darstellt, sollte sich daran erinnern, welches Volk bereits 2 Weltkriege mit zahllosen Toten entfesselt hat. :evil:

Die Distanzierung von den Nationalsozialisten wirkt bei PFS nicht sehr überzeugend:

Als politisch und nicht aktionistisch denkender Rechter (und nicht Neonazi, denn der Neonazi will im Gegensatz zum Rechten einen sozialistischen Staat aufbauen, daher auch das Wort Nationalsozialist. (...)

Mit dieser Konsequenz dürftet Ihr Euch aber keinesfalls als NPD-Anhänger präsentieren. Wie nah die NPD der nationalsozialistischen Idiologie ist, beweist der NPD-Chef Udo Voigt regelmässig, wenn er öffentl. als Holocaust-Leugner oder -Verharmloser auftritt. Vor wenigen Wochen ereignete sich in Passau folgendes:

In Passau indes hat die NPD erst vor wenigen Wochen bundesweit für Aufsehen gesorgt - mit dem Begräbnis von Friedhelm Busse, einem altgedienten Aktivisten der militanten Neonazi-Szene. Der bekannte Extremist Thomas Wulff legte die unter dem NS-Regime gebräuchlich Variante der Reichskriegsflagge auf den Sarg. Udo Voigt und andere NPD-Größen standen daneben und sahen zu. Später ließ die Staatsanwaltschaft das Grab nochmals öffnen, um die verbotene Hakenkreuzfahne sicherzustellen. Hier nachzulesen

Das ist nur ein Beispiel von vielen. Weiterhin schreibt der "Politexperte Organisator" (fettgedrucktes ist von mir hervorgehoben):

Auf der anderen Seite dieser Personengruppe, die wahllos auf alles andere einschlägt, steht eine Einheitsfront von politisch korrekten Blockwarten, Meinungsmachern und jeder Menge selbsternannter “Rechtsextremismus-Experten” (zu denen sich offensichtlich auch “Tom” zählt), die jedoch selbst bei dreifachem genauen Hinsehen nicht einmal die Unterschiede zwischen Konservatismus, Rechtspopulismus, Freiheitlichkeit, Rechtsradikalismus, Rechtsextremismus und Neonazismus erklären können - was aber etwas ist, was zum Grundrepertoire eines jeden “Experten” zu diesem Themenfeld gehören sollte.

Nun, für den Begriff "Freiheit" oder "Freiheitlichkeit" (hä?) reklamieren schon sogen. Liberale die Deutungshoheit. Ansonsten herzlichen Dank für die "Aufklärung" :-)
Verzeiht mir meine "Intoleranz", wenn ich alles was sich rechts von der CSU befindet, radikal ablehne. Ich mache es äusserst ungern, aber ich muss zugeben, dass ich Franz Josef Strauss zustimme:

Rechts von der CSU darf es nie wieder eine demokratisch legitimierte Partei geben. Dort ist eine Wand!

Vor eben jene Wand ist die NPD kürzlich wieder gelaufen, als eine vollmundig angekündigte Wahlkampfveranstaltung in Niederbayern zum kleingärtnermässigen Grillabend floppte. Schön zu sehen, dass die NPD'ler selbst im erzkonservativen Bayern kein Bein auf die Erde kriegen. RECHT SO! Das nächste bayrische "Großevent" der NPD ist übrigens in Eggenfelden, dem Heimatort des ehem. DSDS-Kandidaten und "Gurkenlaster-Killers" Daniel Küblböck geplant. Gerüchte konnten allerdings nicht bestätigt werden, die besagten, dass der "Superstar" für einen Auftritt zur Verfügung steht :mrgreen:

Sein Elaborat schließt der Organisator mit abstrusen Verschwörungstheorien ab:

(...)Es geht nicht um die NPD, die ja bekanntlich von einer Masse von V-Männern infiltriert ist, welche nicht nur als Informanten tätig sind, sondern - man höre und staune! - auch als sogenannte “Agents provocateurs” auftreten.(...)

Am Ende stellt sich möglicherweise noch heraus, dass sogar Udo Voigt und Udo Pastörs V-Männer sind, ... :mrgreen: Fakt ist aber, dass "die Kameradschaften" die Parteistruktur der NPD mit aufgebaut haben.
Ein schwaches Licht am Ende des Tunnels gibt es in Form von leicht angedeuteter Selbsteinsicht:

Nun mag man anführen, dass dies alles ein wenig nach Verschwörungstheorie klingt,...

Nicht nur "ein wenig". Euer ganzer Blog ist, eine mit Hass-Agitation vollgestopfte Verschwörungstheorie, meine ich! Der neutrale Leser mag sich selbst ein Urteil bilden...

P.S. Ich habe zusätzlich ein paar Fremdwörter eingebaut, damit der Artikel etwas Intellektueller wirkt, um meinen niedrigen IQ zu verbergen ;-)

On this day in 1787, Congress enacts the Northwest Ordinance, structuring settlement of the Northwest Territory and creating a policy for the addition of new states to the nation. The members of Congress knew that if their new confederation were to survive intact, it had to resolve the states competing claims to western territory. In 1781, Virginia began by ceding its extensive land claims to Congress, a move that made other states more comfortable in doing the same. In 1784, Thomas Jefferson first proposed a method of incorporating these western territories into the United States. His plan effectively turned the territories into colonies of the existing states. Ten new northwestern territories would select the constitution of an existing state and then wait until its population reached 20,000 to join the confederation as a full member. Congress, however, feared that the new states--10 in the Northwest as well as Kentucky, Tennessee and Vermont--would quickly gain enough power to outvote the old ones and never passed the measure. Three years later, the Northwest Ordinance proposed that three to five new states be created from the Northwest Territory. Instead of adopting the legal constructs of an existing state, each territory would have an appointed governor and council. When the population reached 5,000, the residents could elect their own assembly, although the governor would retain absolute veto power. When 60,000 settlers resided in a territory, they could draft a constitution and petition for full statehood. The ordinance provided for civil liberties and public education within the new territories, but did not allow slavery. Pro-slavery Southerners were willing to go along with this because they hoped that the new states would be populated by white settlers from the South. They believed that although these Southerners would have no slaves of their own, they would not join the growing abolition movement of the North.

"Congress enacts the Northwest Ordinance." 2008. The History Channel website. 12 Jul 2008, 10:45 http://www.history.com/this-day-in-history.do?action=Article&id=50376.

On This Day

1099 - The Crusaders launched their final assault on Muslims in Jerusalem.

1585 - A group of 108 English colonists, led by Sir Richard Grenville, reached Roanoke Island, NC.

1754 - At the beginning of the French and Indian War, George Washington surrendered the small, circular Fort Necessity in southwestern Pennsylvania to the French.

1793 - French revolutionary writer Jean Paul Marat was stabbed to death in his bath by Charlotte Corday. She was executed four days later.

1832 - Henry Schoolcraft discovered the source of the Mississippi River in Minnesota.

1863 - Opponents of the Civil War draft began three days of rioting in New York City, which resulted in more than 1,000 casualties.

1954 - In Geneva, the United States, Great Britain and France reached an accord on Indochina which divided Vietnam into two countries, North and South, along the 17th parallel.

1967 - Race-related rioting broke out in Newark, NJ. At the end of four days of violence 27 people had been killed.

Battle of Corrick's Ford

On this day, Union General George B. McClellan distinguishes himself by routing Confederates under General Robert Garnett at Corrick's Ford in western Virginia. The battle ensured Yankee control of the region, secured the Union's east-west railroad connections, and set in motion the events that would lead to the creation of West Virginia.

Two days before Corrick's Ford, Union troops under General William Rosecrans flanked a Confederate force at nearby Rich Mountain. The defeat forced Garnett to retreat from his position on Laurel Hill, while part of McClellan's force pursued him across the Cheat River. A pitched battle ensued near Corrick's Ford, in which Garnett was killed—the first general officer to die in the war. But losses were otherwise light, with only 70 Confederate, and 10 Union, casualties.

The Battle of Corrick's Ford was a significant victory because it cleared the region of Confederates, but it is often overlooked, particularly because it was overshadowed by the Battle of Bull Run, which occurred shortly thereafter on July 21. However, the success made McClellan a hero, even though his achievements were inflated. Two weeks later, McClellan became commander of the Army of the Potomac, the primary Federal army in the east. Unfortunately for the Union, the small campaign that climaxed at Corrick's Ford was the zenith of McClellan's military career.

"Battle of Corrick's Ford." 2008. The History Channel website. 12 Jul 2008, 10:47 http://www.history.com/this-day-in-history.do?action=Article&id=2244.

Austrian investigation into archduke’s assassination concludes

On July 13, 1914, Friedrich von Wiesner, an official of the Austro-Hungarian Foreign Office, reports back to Foreign Minister Leopold von Berchtold the findings of an investigation into the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand, heir to the Austrian throne, and his wife Sophie the previous June 28, in Sarajevo, Bosnia.

On July 13, Wiesner reported the findings of the Austrian investigation: “There is nothing to prove or even suppose that the Serbian government is accessory to the inducement for the crime, its preparation, or the furnishing of weapons. On the contrary, there are reasons to believe that this is altogether out of the question.” The only evidence that could be found, it seemed, was that Princip and his cohorts had been aided by individuals with ties to the government, most likely members of a shadowy organization within the army, the Black Hand. Realizing he would have to go ahead without evidence of Serbian guilt, Berchtold declined to share these findings with Franz Josef, while his office continued the drafting of the Serbian ultimatum, which was to be delivered on July 23 in Belgrade.

"Austrian investigation into archduke’s assassination concludes." 2008. The History Channel website. 12 Jul 2008, 10:52 http://www.history.com/this-day-in-history.do?action=Article&id=813.

Democratic Party platform defends Roosevelt-Truman foreign policies

As the 1948 presidential campaign begins to heat up, the Democratic Party hammers out a platform that contains a stirring defense of the foreign policies of Franklin D. Roosevelt and President Harry S. Truman. The tone of the platform indicated that foreign policy, and particularly the nation's Cold War policies, would be a significant part of the 1948 campaign.

Throughout 1948, President Truman had been put on the defensive by Republican critics who suggested that former President Roosevelt had been too "soft" in dealing with the Soviet Union during World War II. The Republicans also criticized Truman's Cold War policies, calling them ineffective and too costly. By the time the Democratic Party met to nominate Truman for re-election and construct its platform, Truman was already an underdog to the certain Republican nominee, Governor Thomas E. Dewey. The foreign policy parts of the Democratic platform, announced on July 13, 1948, indicated that Truman was going to fight fire with fire. The platform strongly suggested that the Democratic administration of Franklin D. Roosevelt was primarily responsible for America's victory in World War II, and was entirely responsible for establishing the United Nations. After World War II, the document continued, Truman and the Democrats in Congress had rallied the nation to meet the communist threat. The Truman Doctrine, by which Greece and Turkey were saved from communist takeovers, and the Marshall Plan, which rescued Western Europe from postwar chaos, were the most notable results of the Democrats' foreign policy.

"Democratic Party platform defends Roosevelt-Truman foreign policies." 2008. The History Channel website. 12 Jul 2008, 10:49 http://www.history.com/this-day-in-history.do?action=Article&id=2727.

Anyway, a markedly different culture En Zed may not have however they do win the prize for natural beauty.  I had my first experience on a glacier this past weekend and I must admit it turned upside-down all my preconceived misconceptions.  I really did think a glacier would be an over sized frozen river.   I thought the surface of the glacier would be flat.  Well I really don't know about any other glaciers but this one was all peaks and crevasses and so steep! and crampons are possibly the most amazing invention I have come across. At least now my preconceived notions have now been ditched.

This natural beauty I am seeing is so wonderful to the human eye but when I try to convert into a digital image with my camera I feel I am being cheated.  I am well aware that landscape photography is a learned skill (likely with a good 'eye' thrown in) and landscape has never been a subject of interest to me.  Hence possibly why I feel like New Zealand is missing that difference in culture I crave.  I love photographing people and things I don't find at home.  Once I find some NZ photographic subject matters that appeal to my eye, maybe I will be able to unblock my head and you will be drowning in observations and thoughts..

I was given the honor of the passenger seat for most of the ride down to Picton. We planned to arrive with enough time for me to purhcase my bus and hostel vouchers and then get on the afternoon boat to Picton. As we got closer to our destination, however, it became clear that we were cutting it too close. While booking my accomodation, I frantically explained my situation and was able to be put on the evening ferry at no extra cost- the only downside being that with Daylight Savings now arrived, the 6:15 ferry meant I wouldn't get to see any of the beautiful sound as I embarked on the three hour ferry ride.

I arrived at 9 into a very dark Picton, as apparently the under 5000 residents don't make much for an active night life. I was picked up by a shuttle to take me to the hostel and the German driver and I  made small talk where I found out that he was working and traveling around for one year. When I asked if he was going to stay in New Zealand for that whole year, he replied that the thought so in order to "practice my English, get work experience, and I don't know.... maybe be inspired?" I couldn't help but laugh at how casual he was about it- like it was on his to do list, but only if he had time. You know... do laundry, mow lawn, practice English, get inspired?

I arrived at the hostel and before I even had time to go to my room and drop off my stuff, I was thrusted my complimentary apple crumble (no where near as good as Heidi's with apples fresh off the orchards) and went to the dining room. I ate without a word and listened to an older Scottish woman with an empty box (yes, box.. backpackers buy them, I learned, as they can be air-sealed again and don't have to be consumed in one sitting) in front of her explaining to a group of Europeans how American was as arrogant as Nazi Germany- "No offense." she said to the apparently German man beside her. You can see why maybe I stayed quiet.

I went to my room- nicknamed "the swamp"- and found that out of the 7 other bunk beds, only one had a body in it. I immediately felt a kindred spirit to this other traveler, for if he was in bed doing sodoku at ten oclock, then clearnely I couldn't be a loser. Although I couldn't possibly fathom what the other people were doing in this town.

Day 2: Picton to Nelson

So. I've decided that guide books should be allowed to be more blunt and honest in their description of of towns and not make every city sound so positive and adorable. Instead, they should just say it as it is--  maybe this will be my new career path. Here's an example. "Good for 2 or 3 hours of entertaining walks and views, you don't need to spend any real time in Picton." Just save me the trouble, you know?

After getting up early, something that was going to be a habit on the bus tours, and having time to kill before I meet the first bus of my loop I decided to explore the series of walks that overlooked the harbor. I decided for the 1km rather than the 8 (c'mon people, it is my holiday) and started off. I should have perhaps realized that the reason it was 1km was because it was straight up rather than the 8km that went all the way around. Regardless there were some beautiful views!

After my morning exercise, I returned to town to wait for the Magic bus. It turned out to be an educational ride, with me learning all about the timber and forestry industry in Nelson and the South island. (see, "Did You Know" post.)

We got into the small (but larger than Picton) ocean front town of Nelson around 3pm. Again, in New Zealand most things close at 5pm so I had two hours to peruse the sights and I did pretty well--- it also helps that everything is so close together. I saw the beautiful cathedral- which I would soon find that almost every town has one-

and the botannical gardens next to a gallery.

They have a small (again free!) museum that I wandered through and there are several small studios and craft galleries in this artsy town that I meanedered through on my way to certain stops. I do, however, have a Lord of the Rings Spoiler Alert! If you believe that the "one ring to rule them all" was in fact cast of the fires of Mordor then DO NOT READ ON.

Because...

In this small town of Nelson is the actual jeweller who designed and crafted the actual ring. And where you too can purchase your very own replica for upwards of NZ$900. If you want to read more about the making of it, the website has tons of behind the scenes information. http://www.jenshansen.com/thering.aspx

At 5, when the town essentially shut down and there was an hour left of light, I thought I would head out of the city a ways towards the striking ocean scenery that we had driven in past in order to catch a New Zealand sunset over the water. This proved more difficult than expected as  I never actually made it to the ocean front! Instead, I found the Port of Nelson and heaps of timber to be exported

and the marina where I still took some nice pictures of dusk  

and started walking back into town before it got too cold. I treated myself to a nice dinner- glass of wine and all- to celebrate my embarking on the trip. I will say, though, that I think I've figured out why many travellers keep such detailed, thoughtful and introspective journals. I think it's out of boredom and lack of anything else to do!

Nelson is known as the gateway to the Abel Tasmen, an apparently amazing National Park known for spectacular walks, kayaking trips, wildlife etc. Still, my time was limited and it's just another thing to add to my list for 'next time.'  I was on to Greymouth.

Day 3: Nelson to Greymouth

As previously mention, today was the second longest bus ride I would take. (Although! I didn't get car sick once on the whole trip!) We stopped at a place called Cape Foulwind where we could hike around- and you can probably guess the weather. It was nice to get off the bus and stretch out legs for a bit, though, even if the weather was less than perfect.

We also- as previously mentioned- stopped in Punakaki to see the pretty impressive Pancake Rocks.

The Pancake Rocks are limestone formations that began forming 30 million years ago, when lime-rich fragments of dead marine creatures were deposited on the seabed, then overlaid by weaker layers of soft mud and clay. The seabed was raised above sealevel by earthquakes to form the coastal cliffs and coastline. The sea, wind and rain have since etched out the soft layers to form the unusual rock formations that are there today.

We arrived in Greymouth at dinner tme, and most people went on the brewery tour- as there were tastings and bbq dinner all included in the cost. And since it was the only thing to do. I however, politely declined, although I ended up meeting my new Irish roomates for a drink later that evening. The three girls who I was rooming with were just joining up with Magic the next morning and would be my travel aquantances throughout the first half of my trip.

Since there's not much more to comment on about Greymouth, I would just like to pause and take a moment to say that backpackers are a rare breed- that I think I misjudged entirely. Some will think nothing of packing a hair staightener, make-up and heels along with their hiking boots and fancy out door equipment. This goes for males as well as females; maybe not the make-up part, but what people consider a 'neccesity' (knowing full well they're going to have to carry it on thier back) would be an interesting case study. It was also somewhat of a shock to me when we'd stop for tea breaks or sight seeing, that many of these young, fit, active sorts who could eat granola for breakfast and not shower for days would hope off the bus for their next cigarette. Just goes to show, you shouldn't have preconceived notions, as anyone has the right to travel the world!

Day 4: Greymouth to Franz Joseph 

I had signed up the previous day for a glacier hike through these activity sheets that they pass around the bus and then the driver signs you up for. Obviously, you don't have to sign up for any and can plan your own thing but with the amount of time I had and  the convenience of having it all ready to go when you arrived in the cities the system worked well for me. The south island has vastly different climate and geological make up than the north island and as such you can see everything from forests, limestone formations, to snow capped peaks in the winter and glaciers year round. Franz Joseph is a glacier that's been receeding for hundreds of years, but ironically, not melting. It just shifts backwards over time, but the guide said that the actual mass hadn't lessened.

The short ride to Franz Joseph went quickly with two stops- one in the greenstone rich town of Hokatika and the other stop at Ross where we learned about the history of gold mining in New Zealand- we arrived in town with just enough time to through our belognings on the bunkbeds and rush to the town center in time to depart with our guide. With it being winter, the half day activities had to get off in time in order to be back and off the ice by dark. The half day glacier expedition left at 1 and had us back to town at 5, so we got our money's worth!

I had previously asked the three Irish lasses, who were also doing the same hike, if they'd mind me joining them- for safety reasons. "Fook safety! We could use the cumpany!" was Orla's reply. We geared up with the provided equipment, including everything from wool socks, gloves, hats, boots, "talons" for griping the ice, and rain coats and piled into the bus to be taken to the site. We had to hike along the river bed for approximently 45 minutes just to get to the base of the glacier

 where we strapped on the talons and headed up!

It took another 45 minutes, just for the whole team to reach the first little ridge... only about 100 meters in. Kind of puny compared to how massive the whole thing is, estimated with a length of 12000 meters. But still, that's a hundred more meters than I've ever been on a glacier! At the top, Orla celebrated with a cigarette, and me by practicing my mountaineering poses.

Yes, that's another tour group behind us.... and the ax in my hand is actually what our guide carried the whole way in order to chip out rough patches for us, since some the steepest bits had been carved into steps and required maintanence to keep them up.

We had to start back as the sun was already ducking behind the hills, and we had another hour and half to get the bus. We made our way back, starving and freezing--- but alpinists! 

After warm showers, we met for dinner at the local pub where some of the Magic gang were going to be. We heard about other people's adventure (helicoptering to the top of the glacier and then jumping in an ice water pool!) and shared plans for the next stop of Queenstown.  I've also learned that travelling is a very social activity for many people, and they're always looking for the "hot spot" in whatever town they're in that night. The hostels encourage this help to their local economy by proving "free shot" coupons good at certain bars, or other deals to get people out and spending money. While I'm all for having a good time at home now and then, I'd rather spend my money elsewhere in New Zealand.

As a result I finished my meal and headed back to bed to prepare for the long ride into Queenstown.

One of the most distinguishing feature of a "Bear" is the facial hair.  Beards in particular are always sexy on most bearish men.  They are to be admired as oftentimes sporting a beard is an artform in itself.  As I can't grow a decent moustache to save my life, I had to research the types of beards that are out there.  In particular, I wanted to know what type of beard Joey Oglesby had (from my latest post about him).  Apparently, it is a "Franz-Josef" beard (with a bit of a modification).

EDIT: As an astute Pope had pointed out, Ole Anderson is actually sporting the "Friendly Mutton Chops."

We did the couple of hotel inspections we had to straight away and then headed over to the glacier and walked a couple of the shorter routes (the Sentinel Rock Walk and the Forest Walk which take about 20 minutes each) to see some great views of the glacier and take photos. The glacier is actually in a state of advancement now (and has been for the last 25 years) so is pretty impressive. Nothing like it was in the late 1700's though, looking back at the old photographs of the area. You can see in a couple photos I took (here and here) a large area of grey stone and shale with someone walking across it - the ice used to extend down to here and this was a lake that people used to row across to climb the glacier, dodging small icebergs on the way!

After that bit of exercise we were in need of some lunch, so headed back to the township, grabbed a toasted sandwich, I went into the local store and bought myself a pair of much-needed sunglasses (and a new book - Bill Bryson's Notes from a Small Island - I've been meaning to read it for a couple of years). Then, on to our "country retreat" ... and it certainly is a retreat! Talk about remote. The views of the mountains and nearby lake are really something. So here I am writing this and spending a lazy afternoon reading my book. Unfortunately there's no internet access whatsoever out here, so I'm not sure when I'll get to add this (and the new photos) to the blog.

Tomorrow morning (if the weather holds up) we should be going heli-hiking on the Fox Glacier, which is about 30 minutes south of Franz Josef.

Dozens of rare West Coast kiwi may be moved away from their ancestral homes to islands in the Hauraki Gulf and Foveaux Strait in a desperate attempt to save the species from extinction.

The Department of Conservation says it has to create back-up populations, away from stoats, to avert extinction.

Although some Haast and Okarito Rowi kiwi chicks are already raised away from predators, they are returned to their home forest in South Westland when they are large enough to fight off stoats.

Under new proposals, DoC wants to move breeding pairs of Okarito birds to the sub-tropical Motuihe Island in the Hauraki Gulf, near Auckland, and up to 10 Haast birds to Rarotoka Island, in Foveaux Strait.

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